problem solving washing machines

What is the Best Spin Speed for Washing Machine?

Does Washing Machine Spin Speed Matter When Washing Laundry?

First things first: What does the washing machine spin speed do?

The spin cycle comes at the end of the wash to remove as much excess water as possible. The cycle speed is the difference between damp laundry and less damp laundry. This affects the drying time on the washing line and in the tumble dryer.

Damp and less damp, is that really the only difference?

Well, in most cases, yes.

Does the washer spin speed really matter, then?

Yes it does, but usually only when it comes to the type of fabric washed.

Let’s take a closer look

Spin speed is measured in revolutions per minute (RPM). The higher the spin RPM on a washing machine the faster the drum turns and the drier the clothes at the end of the cycle.

The drier the clothes come out of the machine, the faster they dry on the line and in the tumble dryer.

There are 1800 spin speed washing machines on the market – turning 1800 times per minute! The most common, however, are 1400 spin speed washing machines.

The lowest washing machine RPM speed is 400. If you’re washing a normal load, it doesn’t make sense to go down to 400RPM as your clothes will come out damper than is ideal. But, this setting is perfect for delicate fabrics, particularly silk.

Spinning silk at high speeds can damage the fabric, weakening it so it tears easily.

More robust fabrics, including cotton, wool, and denim can withstand much higher speeds, going up to 1400 (or 1800) to really wring them dry

Bear in mind that higher speeds are more ‘violent’ and your clothes may come out creased as a result. This is particularly true for cotton work or dress shirts and blouses. So, while high speeds are good for cotton fabrics, it’s not necessarily best for your smart clothes. Unless, that is, you love ironing. If you love ironing then by all means spin the bejesus out of your washing.

Selecting washing machine spin speed

You generally don’t have to figure which is the best spin speed for your washing machine because it is preset with particular cycles.

So, if you are washing a load of delicates and you select the ‘Delicate’ setting, your washer will automatically go to 400RPM.

If you’re washing blankets and towels and you select the correct setting, your washer will automatically go to the 1000RPM to 1800RPM range.

You can change the setting if you so choose. For example, if you’re stuck for time and want a quick wash, the setting might go the mid-RPM range. But if your load is mostly towels then you can change it to a faster speed.

Does the washing machine spin speed really, truly, absolutely matter?

Not when it comes to the high spin speed range: 1200RPM to 1600RPM.

According to Peter Tyson, washing machine manufacturers are pulling a tiny bit of wool over our eyes.

You see, most washing machines are made with the same kind of motor with the same speed controls. The difference is that the motors of washers sold with lower RPM are designed to cut-off the speed at the chosen maximum point.

If we assume that motors go up to 1600RPM but the washer is sold as a 1200RPM model, then the motor is disabled beyond that point.

Basically, the production costs for various models with various maximum speeds are pretty much the same across the board. The trick is that high speeds are considered an extra feature and so manufacturers charge more for those washers.

In point of fact, the higher price is based on perceived value. We the public think that price indicates value and quality. We expect to pay more for high RPM models than low RPM models. If a brand charged much the same for low and high models, we’d be suspicious of the quality.

So, essentially, consumers dictate that:

  • We pay more for a 1200RPM model than a 1000RPM model.
  • We pay more for a 1400RPM model than a 1200Rpm model.

You can imagine the mark-up on an 1800RPM model.

Two other things that Tyson reckons consumers should be aware of when it comes to washing machine spin speeds:

  1. Your expensive highest spin speed washing machine might not hit its top speed at all. It can depend on the size and balance of the load. So you have to get it exactly right to benefit from all 1800 rotations per minute.
  2. If your washer does hit its highest speed, it might maintain it for only 30 seconds. So your high speed washer builds up speed, hits top speed, and immediately winds back down.

You might as well save yourself a couple of hundred Pounds and go for a somewhat slower model.

This is where we get back to damp and less damp

In a separate article, Tyson refers to a comparison between spin speeds and the effect on drying speed and energy used. The comparison uses a 6kg drum size and an A-rated condenser tumble dryer. Let’s look at the table.

800 70% 4 kWh
1000 60% 3.7 kWh
1200 53% 3.3 kWh
1400 50% 3.1 kWh
1800 42% 2.6 kWh

Let’s look at the three highest speeds. In terms of residual dampness and energy used to tumble dry their performance is very similar. There is a fair difference between the performance of 1400 and 1800 speeds but the gap is twice as big as any of the other measurements. It’s still possible to say that the difference between the two is not so great as to justify extra costs.

Also, Tyson points out that while you might think that 1800RPM is the bee’s knees, washing machines aren’t necessarily built to cope with the powerful action. According to Tyson, regardless of the size of the motor and spin speed, things like the suspension and bearings are the same. So the faster the spin, the more pressure is put on these components, and the likelier damage will occur.

In the end

It isn’t necessary to get the highest RPM washing machine to get the best results. Mid-range speeds of 1200RPM and 1400RPM deliver on efficacy and economy and are more than sufficient for the average family with average laundry needs.

The only time you really need to worry about spin speeds is when you’re washing special items like silks, delicates, blankets, and cotton shirts and blouses. Your washing machine is likely to use the correct speed based on the setting, but you can choose a speed you think will work best for your immediate laundry needs.

Posted by Jason Darkins in Appliance Insurance Articles

No Hot Water in Washing Machine! Help!

What on Earth is the matter if my washing machine has no hot water?

There are several potential reasons why you may have no hot water in washing machine. Before you go on an investigative mission to find the problem, however, take note of this:

Do not mess with your washer’s electrics if you have no electrical experience. You could unintentionally injure yourself; you could create a dangerous situation that affects your home’s entire electric system; and you could make it almost impossible for a qualified repair person to fix the problem. And, of course, you’ll negate your appliance insurance policy.

Now, let’s take a look at why your washer is not getting hot water.

  • The heating element has gone phut

One of the wonderful things about modern washing machines is that they have all sorts of systems in place to detect errors of any kind, including problems with heating water. They gauge the washing machine’s water temperature and if, according to Peter Tyson, it doesn’t reach a certain temp within a certain period of time the system will stop the wash and flash the appropriate error code.

Unfortunately, somewhat older washers don’t have displays that indicate a precise fault. They also don’t have the advanced systems that will stop the wash mid-cycle. Instead, the cycle will go on and on (and on and on) until the water eventually heats up to the correct temperature or you run out of patience and switch off the machine.

If you have an older model and you find that the washing machine is not heating water consistently, then the element might be faulty. The same is true for a modern washer that registers the problem.

You can test the element to see if that is where the fault lies. However, you need specific equipment, for example, a continuity meter or multimeter. You also need to know how to use and read a multimeter; you need to know about open and closed circuits; and you need to know how to safely access the element’s connections.

You can see why it’s usually best to go straight to a professional appliance technician. If, for argument’s sake, you know all of the above and you want to test the element yourself, you’re looking for a measurement of 20 to 50 Ohms. Anything in the range indicates a functioning element; if it’s out of range then the element is faulty.

  • The element’s heat protector device is faulty

It’s unlikely that you’ve heard of a thermal overload cut-out (TOC), and that’s fine. As a layperson you aren’t expected to know the technical ins and outs of heating systems. As a matter of interest, think of a TOC as a fuse, when it trips there is probably a serious problem; for example, your washing machine’s temperature has gone sky-high.

The problem could also be idiopathic – there is no discernible reason for the TOC to trip. Call a qualified technician to diagnose and repair the problem.

  • There is a problem with the wiring

Another potential problem with your washing machine’s hot water system is defective wiring. Wiring problems can be fairly easy to spot; the wire’s plastic coating (insulation) will look burnt (or even smell burnt). The coating could be broken and the wires exposed. The wires could also be frayed.

It’s exceptionally risky to mess with the wiring on your own. The danger of electric shock is enormous. Any problem with the wiring should be seen to by a professional technician.

  • Not connected to the tap

Washing machines that heat their own water are the norm, so it’s unlikely that you’ll have to ensure that your washing machine is connected to a hot water tap. You will have to check that your washer is connected to a tap, however. No connection, no hot water in your washer.

  • Software bugs

Modern washers come with advanced software that is designed to operate the machine and monitor performance to detect and report faults. However, as we know, software is not prefect and error-free. It’s possible that there is a fault that prevents your washer from heating water for the wash cycle which the software does not detect. You will need to call a specialist – a specialist who has experience with modern washers and with your particular brand.

As you can see, a modern washing machine that heats its own water can have simple and complex faults that affect water temperature and performance. Regardless of the complexity of the problem, it’s highly recommended that you leave repair of your machine to professionals. The risks of injury and further damage are too great to chance your luck. In addition, if you muck around and make the problem worse, chances are good your appliance insurer will refuse your claim.

Posted by Jason Darkins in Appliance Insurance Articles

Washing Machine Door is Locked! Help!

My Washing Machine Door is Locked and I Don’t Know How to Open It?

Ever locked your car door with the keys inside? Or worse, locked yourself out of your house? While not on that kind of scale, it’s incredibly frustrating when your washing machine door is locked and you can’t get at your wet clothes inside.

Why in the world does a washing machine do this? And how can you get your washer door open again?

The why and the how

Don’t give into your frustration if the washing machine lock is broken and the door is jammed. Don’t try to force the door open either with tools or by yanking it until something snaps. You could turn a relatively minor problem into a disaster that the replacement of a number of (potentially expensive) parts. You could even damage the machine beyond repair, and then you’ll be really angry – with yourself.

There are several potential reasons doors stick. Let’s take a quick look:


  1. There is still water in the machine

    Washers don’t open when still full of water. This is great because it saves you a deluge if your machine suddenly has drainage problem. If you have kids, it also saves you a flooded floor should curious fingers open the door while in use.

    If there is no water in the machine and the washer has successfully gone through all the cycles, then Peter Tyson, from Peter Tyson Appliances, says that it’s likely that either the door mechanism or the actual lock is faulty.

    Some washers have a pressure switch, which keeps the door closed for as long as it detects water in the drum. In some cases, there is no water in the drum, but the lock remains activated. You’ll need to turn off the main switch so the lock cools and deactivates. It only takes a few minutes before you can open the door.

    Once again you will need to check your washer for drainage problems. If it’s draining properly then the pressure system may have failed. It’s probably best to call a professional technician to fix the fault.

  2. The door lock is faulty

    There could a problem with the interlock and this causes your washing machine door to be jammed. According to Tyson, it’s best to go through and rule out other potential faults before you go to the trouble of replacing the lock. Otherwise you just waste your time and your money.

    The interlock could also be faulty. This typically happens in certain circumstances only; the most common of which is when the machine is overworked and overheats as a result. Switch off the machine at the wall and play the waiting game. If you’re unlucky, the interlock will take hours to cool sufficiently for the door to open. Your washing might smell a bit funky from being left in a damp machine, so be prepared to do a quick rinse and spin, perhaps even a quick wash.

    An article on Gotech Repairs has some good tips on how to jimmy open a washer door that’s stuck.

  3. There is a fault with the door lock mechanism

    The mechanism comprises the door catch and the handle. If either the washing machine door latch is broken or the handle is damaged, or a component of these parts is broken, the door won’t open.

    The parts tend not to go phut suddenly; they start to give notice a fair while before they chuck it in and keep washer door firmly locked.

    You’ll need to open the door and look at the innards to find the fault and replace the part.

    Everything Homes Lifestyle Blog has a great article on how to open your washing machine door if the handle is broken.

  4. The hinge is broken

    In an article on WhiteGoodsHelp, Tyson says that in the good old days washing machine hinges were designed to last for decades. Alas, most modern washers aren’t as sturdy and it’s actually quite common for a hinge to break. Fortunately, the solution is easy enough and you should be able to replace the hinge yourself, without having to call a professional repair technician.

    You can access the hinge via the top of the washer. There are usually two screws and/or bolts that you’ll have to undo. They’re usually easy to see and easy to remove.

    Sometimes, however, you have to remove the washer door seal to reach all the screws. This is a good time to check the washing machine door seal and replace it if necessary.

    You should also be able to access the hinge from the back of the machine. So if you’re not getting any joy from above, take the back way.

  5. The child lock is on

    We mentioned above the benefits of a washing machine door lock when there are children in the home. Some washers have specifically designed a child lock mechanism; the lock could be engaged and then it’s just a matter of unlocking the door. The instruction book will tell you how to do this. It will also tell you how to deactivate the washer door lock, so you don’t have to keep fiddling about to get your clothes out.

    As with all things appliance-related (or broken-appliance-related) only tackle DIY solutions if you are confident that you won’t make the problem worse. If you attempt to fix any problems yourself and it does go pear-shaped, it’s possible that your insurance won’t approve your claim.

    Rather get a professional (preferably professionally accredited) technician to fix the lock on your washing machine for you. Your insurance is likely to cover the cost of the repair.

Posted by Jason Darkins in Appliance Insurance Articles

Discover 7 Simple Reasons Why Your Washer Dryer is Leaking

7 Simple Reasons Why Your Washer Dryer is Leaking

It has been one of those crazy days at the office. Then you rush to the shops, managing to arrive just before they close. Naturally, Murphy kicks in with his law again and you hit a traffic jam on the way back. You finally get home. But, just as you’re carrying in the groceries… what the…? Water all over the floor. Great. Just what you need – your washer dryer is leaking.

After laying out every towel in the house in a desperate attempt to sop up some of the soapy Brobdingnagian deluge, you resign yourself to the fact that the load you did this morning to ‘save time’ clearly had other ideas.

Now what?

There are a few reasons why your washer dryer is leaking. Here is a checklist you can run through which may help prevent the next flood. You can fix most of them yourself. But it’s always a good idea to get a professional’s help. It’s also important to remember you can void the warranty on your new machine if repairs are carried out by unregistered professionals.

So, why is your washing machine leaking?

  1. Excessive use of detergent and fabric softener

It’s important to use the correct quantity and type of detergent. Too much detergent in can lead to a build-up of excess foam in the machine. This causes water to leak through various outlets, including the detergent drawer. An overdose of fabric softener can cause similar results.

It may seem silly, but read (and follow) the specified amounts for the size of the load. Pay attention to what the manufacturer considers a small, medium or large load.

Although we all have budgets, you should try to avoid cheap, low-quality detergents, since they are prone to over-foaming. Penny-wise, pound-foolish and all that. You’re unlikely to be happy to have saved 40p on the washing load when you’ve just soaked Nana’s priceless Persian carpet. In the long run, with detergent as with all things, you get what you pay for. Low-cost detergent may also build up in your clothes and in the plumbing of the washing machine itself, causing more problems down the line.

  1. Overloading the machine

Yes, we all want to save time. It is our most precious resource and there is never enough of the stuff. But putting as much as we can into the machine is a false economy. When the machine is overloaded, the water does not drain properly. Instead it leaks out during the spin cycle. Overloading leads to residue build-up in the fabrics or the machine itself, since the water can’t flow freely. Those white marks on your favourite black jeans? Almost certainly a result of either cheap detergent or overloading.

It will save you much more time and money in the long run to simply load the machine as per the manufacturer’s guidelines with regards to the capacity of the wash drum. Sort of like putting too much food in your mouth and then trying to say ‘football’ – you will not be scoring any goals with any potential mates with that one. And having dirty clothes because of a broken washer is more than likely to have the same effect. Ultimately, as the saying goes, it’s better to “measure twice and cut once” than attempt to cram as much as possible in there.

  1. Leakage caused due to a blockage

Your washer dryer may appear to be leaking even when it is not in use.  This can be due to a leakage in the main water supply, rather than the washer dryer itself. Alternatively, if it leaks at the end of a cycle when water is being pumped out it can also be due to a blockage in the machine’s drainpipes caused by small garments (that is where your missing sock went, in case you were wondering) or, if you have animals, the blockage is likely from the hair left on your clothing. That water has to go somewhere, and it goes back into the washer dryer, causing overflow. This can then cause the water to flood and appear as if it’s leaking from inside the machine.

  1. Leaking hoses

There is a variety of types of hoses used in a standard washing machine. But the most common are the ones that connect your water supply (fill hose) to the water inlet valve and the hose that drains the water from your washer. You will find the inlet water valve hose at the back of your washer (usually). It controls the entry of hot and cold water into your machine. If you notice that the leakage occurs primarily when the tub is being filled, the fill hose may be the culprit.

There are fittings that keep the fill hose tightly in place. Make sure that the thread on these fittings has not worn away. You can also obtain very good results from buying some plumber’s tape (also called thread seal or PTFE tape) and wrapping it a few times around the thread before refitting the hose. And you can check that the tap that the hose is connected to isn’t leaking either (this is very common if the washer in the tap hasn’t been changed in a while. It’s a cheap part, but unless you are 100% sure what you’re doing, a leaky tap is best left to the plumber).

If your machine leaks even when you are not using it, it may be that the water is building up too much pressure in the tap. With nowhere else to go to, it will eventually force itself out through the tap mechanism or the thread seal. Try turning the tap off when the machine is not in use.

Hoses continued ….

The other hose that drains the water away is also situated at the back of the machine (yes, it’s not exactly convenient, considering it takes the average person five attempts to get the machine away from the wall). Check that it is properly installed and far enough down the drain pipe. If the leak occurs during the wash part of the cycle, then this hose may be the problem. As per above, also check that there is no blockage in the outlet area of the pipe. It’s also a good idea to check that there are no blockages between the pipe and the drain. If the pipe is full of water, you have found the problem.

Washers also have internal hoses that connect the inlets and outlets to the actual tub of the machine. A worn hose here can also create a leak. You would need to get right into the machine to check these out, so unless you are confident you can lift the main top or remove the cabinet to check if the hoses have degraded in places, it’s best to call a plumber.

  1. Water drain pump

The water pump pumps water down the drain. Essentially, it drains the water from the tub of the machine. It can be belt-driven, direct drive or it could be a completely separate electric pump. It will have an outlet and an inlet pipe. If the leak occurs during the wash and/or drain cycle, it is likely that the water pump is your problem. The problem could be in either of the hoses; for example, the hoses connected to the pump could be loose because the thread on the fitting that tightens the hose to the machine is stripped, or the actual hose could be worn (nearly all waterproof substances are prone to weathering, either due to movement, pressure, or even the friction of whatever is being carried through the pipe).

If the connections and hoses seem to be in order, then, again, it is time to call that plumber. If you are brave enough to attempt it yourself, be sure to switch off all electrical power leading to the machine. You may be a bright spark for figuring out what the problem is but you’re likely to look less fetching when you’ve been lightly fried.

  1. Washer is unbalanced

This may seem like a small issue, but because the tub is moving so fast during the spin cycle, it causes a lot of movement. An unbalanced machine can be caused by having heavier clothes on one side of the machine (rare and difficult to prevent unless you group your washing by fabric type, such as putting all your towels in together) or simply because the feet of the machine have not been equally adjusted. This can be fixed by either raising or lowering each foot until the machine is balanced and stable. Remember that it is extremely hard to detect any height differences in a floor and something that may be invisible to the naked eye, like a dimple in the wood or tile, may cause your machine to vibrate. Apart from causing leaking, this will increase vibration and wear on the moving parts.

  1. The manufacturer’s drain plug

This is mentioned in the washer dryer’s manual (yes, it came with the machine when you first bought it. No, it is not written in code). You need to remove the drain plug or the washer won’t drain and will instead leave a nice big puddle. At least it will give you an opportunity to test those new Wellingtons you got for your birthday.

Some Soaps do eventually come to an end…

If your machine looks like something out of an H.G Wells’ book, you may have to face the horrid truth that you have to buy a new one. However, the coronation of your new washing machine could indeed become a reason to throw a party. And with no dirty laundry to be aired!

But please remember…

Appliances should be serviced regularly according to the manufacturer’s instructions found in the product manual. If you have a problem with an appliance, call in a NICEIC or Gas-Safe registered appliance engineer to repair your appliance. Don’t forget that if your appliance is not working optimally, you should also have it serviced to prevent further damage.

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Posted by Surewise in Appliance Insurance Articles

Washing Machine Making Grinding Noises!

Is your washing machine making grinding noises? Here’s what to do

There are several things that cause a washing machine to start making grinding noises, ranging from an improper installation to a failing component. Don’t allow a grinding noise to persist without investigating it. The sooner a failing component is detected, the sooner it can be replaced or repaired, which will save you money and prevent further damage to other parts.

If you’re not insured with us and are the DIY type and are able to repair or replace the part, you could save a few pounds on the cost of the repair man. However, unless you’re sure you know what you’re doing, it’s advisable to call the repair man. If you are covered by our appliance insurance policy, you can sit back and relax because we arrange for repairs on your behalf, and the cost is absorbed by your claim.

What causes the grinding noises?

A grinding noise is commonly caused by a malfunction or failing of one of the following parts of the machine.

Agitator dogs:

These allow the agitator to rotate in one direction and lock in the opposite direction. They’re located in the centre column inside a top load washing machine. They consist of four small pieces of plastic which, over time, wear out and begin slipping, which produces the grinding noise when the machine is in the agitate cycle.

Tub bearing:

It is preferable to replace the complete outer tub and bearing, rather than just the bearing in the tub. Chances are that unless the tub is replaced, it will be the next thing to go.

Tub seal and bearing kit:

If this is the cause of the grinding noise then replace both the seal and bearing kit.

Drive pulley:

Check to see if the pulley is worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove it and inspect it carefully. If you see signs of wear and tear you’ve probably found the source of the noise. You will have to replace the part.

Failure of the U-joint:

The u-joint is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion. It’s an expensive part to replace, and with the cost of a repair man it might be worth considering a new washing machine.

Clutch assembly:

The clutch assembly is the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It allows the tub to get up to the correct spin speed. The noise could be a worn out clutch, which makes a loud noise during the spin cycle or just as the cycle completes. The clutch has to be replaced.

Drive belt:

Over time the drive belt dries out and starts cracking. Pieces of the cracked belt break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running.

It is preferable to have these parts checked by a washing machine repair man, unless you have experience of machines or these parts. Inexperienced tinkering can lead to accidental damage, which in the end will just cost more to replace or repair – it could also negate your insurance policy. So take a look at the instruction manual that came with your washer, identify and check the parts, and then call the repair man.

Need Home Appliance Insurance? – Cover for all your home appliances Click Here for a quote!
Posted by Surewise in Appliance Insurance Articles

8 Reasons Why Your Washing Machine is Humming

8 Reasons Why Your Washing Machine is Humming

With our busy lifestyles and barely enough time to do the things we need to do, let alone want to do, just about the last thing you want to deal with is a troublesome washing machine. Aside from not being able to do your laundry, you also have to worry about finding a reputable engineer, arranging a time that is convenient and the cost of the whole thing, including call-out fees and labour.

Don’t despair; if the problem isn’t serious you can probably fix it yourself. For example, one of the most common problems to affect washing machines is a humming noise. Take a look at our troubleshooting tips and you might be able to fix the problem yourself. However, remember not to do anything that will violate the warranty.

Humming problems

  1. Drain hose: If the washing machine is functioning correctly but makes a humming sound while draining, there could be a problem with the drain hose. Replacing the drain hose may solve your problem, but if the hose is fine, and there’s still a humming sound it could mean there’s something wrong with the water supply.
  2. Water supply: If the washing machines does not take in water and makes an unusual humming sound, it could be that the water isn’t flowing. Check to see if there is proper water supply to the washing machine. First check that the taps are actually on. Then unplug the washing machine and turn off the taps supplying water to it. Unscrew the fill hoses from the water valve. Hold the hose over a bucket and turn on the taps to see if there is a decent water supply coming through the hose.
    If the water flow is adequate, then check for any blockage in the water valve’s filter. Although this fault is rare, it can occur. Gently remove the water valve filter with flat pliers and clean the filter. Be careful, as most filters are made of brittle plastic and can easily break.
    If the water flow is slow or if there is no water coming through the hose, then there is likely a fault with the plumbing. In cold weather, the pipes may have frozen, particularly if the washing machine is in the garage.
  3. Carbon brushes in the motor: If you switch on the machine and it makes a humming sound as though it is working but the drum does not turn, then the most common explanation is worn out carbon brushes in the motor. The brushes (located on both sides of the motor) are inexpensive to replace. If they are not worn then there is likely a fault with the motor itself or the printed circuit board.
  4. Drive motor: If the washing machine does not drain water, spin, or agitate, and just makes a humming sound accompanied with a slight electrical burning smell, then you are likely dealing with a failing drive motor. At this point you will have to call the manufacture’s customer service help line for further assistance.
  5. Washer motor: If the washer motor has burned out you may hear a hum or buzz and you will probably smell something burning. A burned out washer motor can be replaced, but often it is more cost-effective to simply buy a new washing machine because the motor usually precursor to other parts giving up the ghost. You may just enter a cycle of repairing and replacing parts, which racks up costs.
  6. Washing machine pump: The gentle humming noise may be caused by a jammed pump trying to turn. The most common explanation for the pump not spinning is a small garment caught in the pump. There’s no other way to fix this problem other than taking the machine apart so that you can remove the stuck item. The problem may also be due to bearing failure, in which case the pump has to be replaced. It is best to call an appliance technician to carry out professional repairs.
  7. Motor coupling: It may also be that the motor coupling has broken, especially if the humming sound seems to have a vibration to it. In this case you will have to take the machine apart. If you’re feeling brave and aren’t afraid of voiding your warranty, you can Google for directions how to take apart your particularly make and model. You can also check YouTube for video tutorials. You can usually find different washer parts you need online, so all you need is a free afternoon and an assistant to keep the coffee coming to get your DIY fix.
  8. Washer drive block: If the washer drive block is loose or worn down you’ll have to replace it. This link will take you to the most well-known brands where you’ll find step by step instructions on how to fix or replace the drive block on your washer. If your make isn’t on the list, just do a YouTube search and there’s bound to be one for your particular make. Once again, you shouldn’t try this if you don’t have any successful DIY experiences under your belt and if you don’t want to negate your warranty.
Posted by Surewise in Appliance Insurance Articles

Washing Machine Error Codes – What Do They Mean?

Washing Machine Error Codes – What Do They Mean?

The washing machine is one of the most used domestic appliances in any home. However, it may develop an internal problem at any time and display an error code. The error code indicates a technical fault, and to prevent any further damage the washing machine will either fail to start or abort the wash cycle.

There are possibly thousands of washing machine error codes, with the error code for the same technical fault differing across the numerous washing machine brands. Below are some examples of washing machine error codes *:


  • DE error – This means that the door is open. The washing machine door latch may need replacing.
  • Error code 5E – This is a water drain error. There could be a problem with the pump filter or the pressure system.


  • Error code E 35 – The machine has detected an overfilling problem. This could be due to a faulty valve, a problem with the pressure switch or defective wiring.


  • Error Code F05 – The machine does not begin the spin cycle because it detects water in the drum, even though the water has been drained. The pressure switch may be jammed or there is a faulty connection.
  • Error code F08 – This means that the heater relay can’t be activated.
  • Error code F10 – This indicates a problem with the pressure switch


  • Error code FP – This error means drain failure. Either there is still water in the machine, or the machine is receiving the wrong signal that there is.

Some washing machine companies share limited error code information to ensure that only authorised service engineers carry out the washing machine repairs and maintenance. Therefore, depending on the washing machine brand you own, you may find detailed or limited information on error codes.

In the absence of technical information on washing machine error codes, independent engineers will struggle to repair the washing machine. What this means is that you may actually pay more for the repair and maintenance of your washing machine than you would have, had it been serviced by your local appliance technician.

This aspect becomes significant when you consider that a washing machine lasts at least 10 years, and will require regular maintenance checks and three to four repair jobs. So, if you are in the market for a new washing machine then besides comparing the various models on technical features, it is advisable to also evaluate which washing machine brand is easily repairable.

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* Please check your product manual, or contact the company customer service for an accurate explanation of the washing machine error codes.

Posted by Surewise in Appliance Insurance Articles

Help – Washer Dryer Keeps Tripping Electrics

Help – Washer Dryer Keeps Tripping Electrics

If your washer dryer keeps tripping the electrics, turn the power off immediately.  Not only could the tripping damage the washer dryer, but it could also disrupt the overall power supply at your home and become a fire hazard.

Here is a list of common causes for your washer dryer to malfunction and cause the electricity to trip:

  • Electrical plug / Power cable malfunction: If the plug is hot, there is probably a loose wire in the plug. Also, with the appliance unplugged and without touching the plug too much, look out for any cracks in the plastic of the plug itself, as the wires may be exposed to water and short circuit. A burnt out wire in the washer dryer could also cause the circuit to overheat and the electricity to trip. If you are using an extension cord, that could also cause the problem. Change the extension and see if the washer dryer works now. If the fault continues, call an electrician. If the electrician confirms that there is no fault with the wiring, it means there is something wrong with the machine and you need to call the appliance engineer.
  • Heating element of the washer dryer:  The sticky residue from detergents and clothes washed and dried in the machine can gather on the heating element, causing it to malfunction. Clean the filter thoroughly and give the machine a maintenance wash, before trying a complete wash dry cycle. It is also possible that either the element of the washer or the dryer has burnt out. You will need an experienced appliance engineer to handle this problem.
  • Overheating of the drum: If the condenser unit, located at the back of the drum, does not work properly, it can cause the drum to overheat and the thermostat to cut out.  Check for any fluff blockages in the fan chamber, but do not attempt to dismantle the machine at all yourself – wait for an appliance engineer to use the correct equipment.
  • Internal water leakage: A water leakage in one of the electricity compartments can also cause a short. This needs to be looked at by an appliance engineer.
  • Problem with the motor: If the electricity is tripping, there could be a problem with the washer dryer motor. Again, call your appliance engineer. 

Please remember:

Appliances should be serviced regularly according to the manufacturer’s instructions – found in the product manual. If you have a problem with an appliance, call in a NICEIC or Gas-Safe registered appliance engineer to repair your appliance. Don’t forget that if your appliance is not working optimally, you should also have it serviced to prevent causing damage to the appliance.

Posted by Surewise in Appliance Insurance Articles